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Pan-Seared Lamb Loin Chops with Caramelized Brussel Sprouts

Posted on | March 1, 2009 | 2 Comments

The winter once again reminded us yesterday in D.C. that it will not go softly into that goodnight. But, as always, one can use the kitchen and fresh, local ingredients to turn a cold day warm. I’d initially headed to D.C.’s Eastern Market in search of venison, but alas I found none. Instead, I moved toward a tray of gorgeous lamb loin chops. I’d not had lamb in a while and thought it was a good time to revisit it. Outside and across the street, the local produce lady displayed a gorgeous box of small brussel sprouts, which were perfectly firm in the icy afternoon weather.

Brussel sprouts are the unfortunate recipient of a great many sour faces – twisted in the memory of some terrible experience in which the little beauties were simply misrepresented, boiled to a mush, or braised beyond recognition. I admit, I too have inflicted brussel sprouts damage on a fair number of family members.

But, I feel the sprouts are making a comeback. They’re popping up on more and more menus, and the sour faces that once panned them broadly, are starting to look more inquisitive than inquisitor. I’d recently seen a video of Thomas Keller on the today show, blanching and caramelizing sprouts and knew that was the direction for me.

I headed back into the market for some gorgeous bacon from Pennsylvania and remembered a lone potato – from Washington’s Green Grocer – I had at home that, cut into cubes and mixed into the sprouts, would cut the bitterness enough to create a nice balance.

Now, what to do with the chops. I searched around on the interweb for a while and didn’t find anything that enticed me enough to try and replicate or modify it. So, in the spirit of recipe play, I went into the kitchen and stared at my spices and into my fridge. I eyed mustard seeds, whole coriander and rosemary. I toasted the spices gently and then remanded them to the mortar and pestle, where I added a pinch of sea salt that I wanted to grind into the mix. Toasted and ground spices are thing of beauty. Once you smell the slightly toasted exterior of the spices mixed with the oils they give off when heated, you’ll never go back. I poured the ground spices into a bowl and added extra virgin olive oil, sherry vinegar, and finely minced parsley and fresh ground black pepper.

I rubbed this mixture over the chops and let them sit in the fridge, covered, for about an hour.

On to the sprouts. I blanched them for about 3-4 minutes in salty boiling water, which really brings the brilliant green color to the surface. I then plunged them into icy water for a few minutes to cool them down. I boiled one potato for about 8-10 minutes and moved it to a cutting board, where i cut it into cubes and set aside. I took one slice of bacon, which was thick cut, and cut it likewise into cubes, much like lardons.

Moving back to the sprouts, I cut the small nub off the end and then cut them in half, which would give them a better caramelization on the interior part of the sprout.

Remove the lamb from the fridge and put on a plate to allow it to come to room temperature.

Add a quarter stick of butter to a hot pan (I actually added leftover clarified butter from an Xmas rib roast) when it’s bubbling, add the bacon. Cook until the bacon is just starting to color and pop, add the sprouts, interior side down, another pinch of salt and a sprinkling of apple cider vinegar and let sit while you turn to the lamb – this is important for caramelization…I promise, just leave them be for a while.

Add a spot of oil to a smoking hot skillet; cast iron is wonderful, but I used a large dutch oven to create space for the chops.

Add the chops. 4 minutes per side (depending on thickness).

After the first turn of the lamb, turn your sprouts and add the diced potato, a bit more vinegar – maybe small shot of chicken stock – and toss few times. Then let sit while the lamb finishes.

After the lamb is browned nicely on both sides, remove to a cutting board and tent with foil for 8 minutes or so.

Give the sprouts another couple of tosses, checking for seasoning, and add to a warm plate ( I hate cold plates). Add the chops, and pour the juice from the resting period off the cutting board and onto each plate of chops. If you want, you could probably add this juice back to a pan with small bit of butter, some sherry and a bit of stock to make a subtle sauce. I don’t think it’s needed, but it’s up to you.

One of my favorite things about this dish is that it emanates entirely from local producers. The lamb was from Maryland, the bacon from PA, and the produce from Virginia. Now, I am not an absolutist about sourcing locally. There are always going to be ingredients that you simply cannot source near your home. The important thing is to merely buy from people you trust, who care about your food and take care to get it from the farm to your plate in a responsible manner. Okay, I’ll get off my soapbox. Enjoy the food.

Ingredients

4 Lamb Loin Chops (about 1.5 pounds)

2 handfuls brussel sprouts (yes, that’s how I measured)

1 slice of thick-cut bacon

1 potato, cut into cubs

butter

apple cider vinegar for the sprouts (to taste)

Rub

1 teaspoon of mustard seed

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1.5 tablespoons of sherry vinegear

pinch of sea salt and ground black pepper

2 tablespoons minced parsley

Will

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